Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (2024)

Why It Works

  • Sautéing the escarole along with the other aromatics tames its bitterness.
  • Barley adds heartiness, making this an ideal entrée soup.
  • Tomato paste, soy sauce, parmesan, and optional fish sauce add layers of savoriness.
  • A finishing drizzle of good olive oil adds richness.

Several years ago, I co-hosted an event at the New York Wine & Food Festival in which a few of our favorite chefs cooked their favorite soups. My favorite of the bunch: Marco Canora's escarole soup.

His version had these terrific little chicken dumplings, but seeing as I have a wife who leans vegetarian and I myself tend not to eat much meat in my off-duty hours, I wanted to convert this great concept into a more veg-friendly version.

Building the Foundation

It starts off pretty similarly to the meaty version, with a sauté of mirepoix—diced onions, celery, and carrots.

Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (1)

Once they're sweated out, I add garlic and rosemary. The latter is a key ingredients for many of the vegetarian soups I make. Added raw at the end of a dish, it can have an overpowering flavor, but cooked down from the start, it mellows, adding a savoriness that permeates the entire dish.

Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (2)

Braised greens are a non-intuitive but fantastic alternative to meat in many of myvegan recipes. The idea first struck me when I tasted the braised greens and shallot sandwich at my friend Charles Kelsey's Boston sandwich shop Cutty's. I made my own version withbraised kalelast year. It's juicy, savory, and intensely satisfying.

In soup, greens work just as well. To maximize their flavor extraction, it's best to sauté them along with the rest of the vegetables. Here I'm using escarole, which has a very mild bitterness that mellows with sautéing, while at the same time intensifying its natural sweetness.

Adding a Depth of Flavor

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Tomato paste, packed with glutamatic acid adds both savoriness and a bit of body to the finished soup. I sauté it until all the vegetables are coated and they start to sizzle, indicating that most of the excess moisture in the pot has evaporated. My version isn't going to have chicken dumplings, but pearled barley adds the requisite heartiness to turn this soup into a main course.

With the veg sautéed, the rest is all about simmering. Chef Canora uses an incredible broth made at his restaurant with whole turkeys, chickens, and beef bones simmered all day in giant pots. I have neither the inclination nor the wallet to use whole birds just for the sake of stock, but Idomake chicken stock at home using trimmings from birds whenever I collect enough of them.

In fact, you can even use store-bought chicken or vegetable broth for this soup because we've got a secret trick to bump up the flavor: a couple of bay leaves and a hunk of Parmesan rind (actually Grana Padano rind in this case). More importantly, the proteins extracted from the cheese help emulsify the soup so that rather than having a slick of olive oil on the surface, it gets evenly incorporated into the broth.

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The last trick? A couple of extra umami bombs: a dash of soy sauce and, if you're not going strictly vegetarian, fish sauce as well, which contains inosinic acid, another compound that works in conjunction with glutamic acid to trigger your sense of savoriness.

Served with a drizzle of really good extra virgin olive oil (my current favorite isthe awesome Arbequina oil from Séka Hills) and a grating of cheese and you've got a fall soup so comforting and filling that you'll never question its meatless status.

Perhaps Chef Canora will have something to say about my bastardization of his beloved soup, but even if he puts me out, I'll take it, knowing I've got a big ol' bowl of comfort waiting for me at home.

November 2013

Recipe Details

Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe

Cook50 mins

Active20 mins

Total50 mins

Serves4to 6 servings

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

  • 1 large carrot, finely diced (about 1 cup)

  • 2 medium stalks celery, finely diced (about 1 cup)

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves

  • 3 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon)

  • 1 large head escarole, chopped into 1-inch pieces

  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste

  • 1/2 cup pearled barley

  • 1 1/2 quarts low-sodium store-bought or homemade vegetable or chicken stock

  • 2 bay leaves

  • 4-inch chunk Parmesan rind

  • 2 teaspoons soy sauce

  • 1 teaspoon fish sauce(optional)

  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

  • Parmesan cheese, for serving

Directions

  1. Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions, carrots, and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add rosemary and garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add escarole and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until liquid has evaporated and mixture begins to sizzle, about 5 minutes longer. Add barley and cook, stirring, until coated with oil, about 1 minute.

    Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (5)

  2. Stir in broth. Add bay leaves, parmesan rind, soy sauce, and fish sauce (if using), and bring to a boil. Reduce to a bare simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until barley is softened and soup has absorbed flavor from parmesan and bay leaves, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley. Serve, drizzling with olive oil and sprinkling with parmesan.

    Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (6)

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  • Soups
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Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (2024)

FAQs

What if I put too much barley in my soup? ›

As barley is a starch the best you can do is dilute it, or thin it out a bit. You may need to add a fair bit of broth and more of your vegetal ingredients. Possibly to the point of doubling your recipe. It will depend on when you find the taste and texture to have gotten back to acceptable levels.

Can I use barley to thicken soup? ›

There is no need for the additional step of cooking the barley first. The barley takes about 30 minutes to cook completely. Because of all the starch in the barley, it will thicken the soup, too.

What is the best substitute for escarole in Italian wedding soup? ›

What greens to use in Italian Wedding Soup? The most traditional greens to use in this soup is escarole, but it's not always widely available. If you need to, substitute endive or kale. Spinach is my personal least favorite green to use, as it adapts a slimy texture in the soup.

Does barley get soggy in soup? ›

Barley takes a bit longer to cook (20-30 minutes), but retains it's shape and texture way better than any other soup carb that I've tried. It doesn't have a strong noticeable flavour, has a lot more nutrition, and holds up after multiple days in the fridge without turning to mush.

Is barley soup anti inflammatory? ›

Research shows that barley helps to regulate blood pressure, boost immunity and provide anti-inflammatory effects.

What happens if you don't rinse barley before cooking? ›

There is no need to rinse barley before using it. To enhance the flavor of barley, heat the kernels in a skillet for a few minutes or cook it in broth instead of water. You can save time by cooking extra barley and freezing it. Add it to soups or salads as you need it.

Does barley need to be cooked before adding to soup? ›

There's no need to cook pearl barley before adding it to soup. This soup calls for almost 2 hours of cooking time which will give the barley plenty of time to soften.

Should barley be soaked before adding to soup? ›

Pearl barley does not need to be soaked prior to cooking because it cooks quickly. Hulled barley benefits from soaking in water for a few hours before cooking. However, you should still budget more time for the hulled grain to cook (about 35 to 40 minutes).

What is the difference between barley and pearl barley? ›

Hulled barley, considered a whole grain, has had just the indigestible outer husk removed. It's darker in color and has a little bit of a sheen. Pearled barley, also called pearl barley, is not a whole grain and isn't as nutritious. It has lost its outer husk and its bran layer, and it has been polished.

Why is my escarole soup bitter? ›

Escarole is a bitter green that is part of the endive family. Its bitter flavor is one of its characteristics, but the bitterness is mild. The key to cooking escarole and reducing the bitter flavor is to ensure you do not overcook it. It is a popular ingredient in soup but can be eaten as is, sauteed with some garlic.

How do you take the bitterness out of escarole soup? ›

Blanching your greens is key to getting that bitterness level down. Because glucosinolates are water-soluble compounds, a lot of them are leached out into the water, allowing for a less bitter green.

How do you cook escarole so it's not bitter? ›

How Do You Take the Bitterness Out of Escarole? While escarole isn't as inherently bitter as broccoli rabe or radicchio, it does have a mild bitterness to it. It's easy to tame, however, by cooking it in garlicky olive oil and offsetting the bitter with a splash of tangy lemon juice at the end.

Is barley a carb or a protein? ›

A one-cup serving of cooked, pearled, barley provides 193 calories, most of which are carbohydrates. You'll consume 44.3 grams of carbohydrates in a single serving, 6 grams of fiber, and 0.4 grams of naturally-occurring sugar. The rest of the carbohydrates in barley are starch.

Is barley soup good for weight loss? ›

Barley keeps you satiated for a longer duration of time and curbs odd hunger cravings, which help in managing weight effectively and improve metabolism as well.

Why is my barley gummy? ›

For starters, make sure you're cooking your barley correctly — if you don't love its texture, you might be either undercooking or overcooking it. Remember that when cooking barley on the stove, it will take a while: bring the barley to a boil then reduce the heat to low and let it simmer for at least 30 minutes.

What are the side effects of too much barley? ›

However, if you consume too much of it, its fiber content can cause stomach cramps, constipation, bloating, and gas. Unwanted weight gain. Barley water is high in calories per serving. You can further increase the calorie count if you add fruit juices or sweeteners like honey to your barley water mix.

Can you have too much barley? ›

When taken by mouth: Barley is commonly consumed in foods. But there isn't enough reliable information to know if it is safe to use in larger amounts as medicine. Side effects might include gas, bloating, and an unpleasant taste. Some people might also be allergic to barley.

How much does barley expand in soup? ›

Yield. To cook 1 cup of barley grains, you'll need 3 cups of water or broth. Like many grains, barley swells considerably when cooked, so 1 cup of dry barley grains will yield 3 cups of tender cooked grains.

Can too much barley be bad for you? ›

Additionally, barley contains short-chain carbohydrates called fructans, which are a fermentable type of fiber. Fructans may cause gas and bloating in people with irritable bowel syndrome (IBS) or other digestive disorders ( 28 ). Therefore, if you have IBS or a sensitive digestive tract, you may want to avoid barley.

References

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